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Take a moment to think about the most well-known colognes and perfumes. The chances are high that you will not be envisioning the brand name alone. Scents also play a predominant role, and these can trigger very visceral responses. How are such smells created, and why do they evoke such emotions?
The Visual Role of Scent
The best way to begin is to examine how popular perfumes are described from the perspective of the creator. For example, the line of Baccarat perfume for women has been associated with the following attributes:
- Airy, luminous, and transparent
- Hints of lemon, tea, and jasmine
- A “breeze of petals”
We can now see that generic terms such as “sweet” or “spicy” will hardly do justice to high-end scents. This brings us to the next main point.
The Role of “Notes” when Creating Unique Scents
One of the ways in which industry professionals describe scents involves a concept known as “notes”. Notes essentially represent how the perfume of cologne is perceived by others after specific periods of time. These can be broken down into three primary stages (1).
The top notes are the smells that will be perceived immediately after the scent is applied. These tend to be the most transient, as light notes tend to begin fading away after ten or 15 minutes.
Middle notes can be thought of as the “body” of the perfume, and its core attributes. These begin to emerge once the top notes have dulled, and will often last for between two and three hours.
Base notes are the aromas that will last the longest. Often described as “rich” or “heavy”, base notes can linger for up to 24 hours after the initial application. These scents are also said to offer a sense of warmth to the perfume or cologne. Some examples of base notes include vanilla, sandalwood, and cedar.
The Surprising Role of Psychology
Why are we attracted to some scents more than others? One individual may be allured by a cologne that evokes smells of the beach, while another could instead be intrigued by rosy sensations. Believe it or not, a fair amount of psychology comes into play. This concept is certainly not lost on the perfumer (an expert who creates new perfumes or colognes).
Most will agree that the idea for a new formulation begins with inherent inspiration. This could come in the form of a memory, a song, or a past fragrance. Either way, the main intention of the perfumer is to capture this sensation, and to literally invent “lightning in a bottle” (for lack of a better term).
There may also be instances when the creator wants to elicit a specific emotional response from the user. Nostalgia, love, calmness, and intrigue are all possibilities that are likely to be explored. It is also not uncommon for the developer to experiment with literally hundreds of different combinations before finding the most appropriate scent.
Patience is a Virtue
Why do some fragrances smell “cheaper” than others? The reader might be surprised to learn that this is not only due to personal preferences. Low-quality colognes and perfumes are often churned out at a breakneck pace. Although this might be used to satisfy end-user demand, the results may be less than satisfying.
High-end brands will therefore choose to “mature” the product once the desired scent has been obtained. This provides time for the constituent ingredients to blend together; leading to a more subtle aroma (2). There may also be occasions when the fragrance concentrate is matured within specific vessels (such as an oak barrel). Similar to whiskey or brandy, even more unique flavours will be imbued. The entire process could take weeks (or even months) to complete.
Much More Than Guesswork
We can now begin to appreciate the sheer number of steps required to create a high-end fragrance. While there is no doubt that inspiration and imagine play key roles, the fact of the matter is that science is just as important. The most well-known perfumes and colognes are never invented accidentally. Time, experimentation, and the occasional mistake will all come into play.
Consider these observations the next time you happen to be drawn to a certain scent. Memorable aromas represent true labours of love, and they reflect our collective psychology to a large extent. The best things do indeed come in the smallest of packages.
Sources:
- https://www.ilovecosmetics.co.uk/blog/what-are-fragrance-notes/
- https://www.wikiparfum.com/en/blog/how-is-a-perfume-made
